Want to know the true meaning of country hospitality? Spend two days in Cowra – Her Canberra
Written by Erin Cross – Online Editor for Her Canberra
Raise your hand if you’re guilty of driving through the charming town of Cowra without stopping.
You’re not alone. But if you’re searching for a truly relaxing experience (one that will show you the real meaning of country hospitality) you might want to change that habit—because you need to stay at least two days in the charming town of Cowra to truly appreciate it, just like I did. Here’s my itinerary—including where to stay, what to do and (of course) where to eat and drink.
STAY
When you stay in the country, it feels only right that you find accommodation on a working property—and Keswick Cottage isn’t only picturesque, cosy, and luxurious but it’s conveniently located a 15-minute drive from the town centre.
Owned by Maria and Paul Clark, from the moment you drive through the gates of the 300-acre property, you can’t help but feel like you’ve been transported into another world. Located only a few metres from their private home, in the distance of Keswick Cottage you’ll see sheep grazing against the backdrop of the Weddin Mountains and if you explore the property, you’ll also come across two adorable two miniature ponies.
But while you’ll spend 10 minutes staring at the gorgeous modern farmhouse interiors of the cottage (my favourite? The large bath overlooking the distant fields, creating the perfect frame for stunning sunsets), it’s the pot of loose-leaf tea and freshly baked brownies that Maria leaves on the King bed that will help you feel right at home.
Providing a complete paddock-to-plate experience, fresh fruit, jams, eggs, bacon, and homemade Greek yoghurt is left in the fridge for you to enjoy for a gourmet breakfast the following morning (or late afternoon snack if you’re like me and can’t resist a bowl of strawberries). And if that’s not enough, there’s even a firepit out the back if you’re willing the brave the cold for a cosy night cuddling by the fire with your partner—basically every creature comfort you could think of (or want) is provided.
I was in and out on little adventures through the town and didn’t spend too much time at the cottage during the day, part of the appeal of this farm stay is you can see firsthand the daily life of working a farm. Completely self-contained, for two days it really was home away from home. And the brownies were delicious.
DO
Learn about the history
When you’re exploring Cowra for the first time, it’s important to know a little bit of the history of the town—including why it has such a special relationship with Japan.
Home to many amazing experiences (including several wineries), I first recommend stopping by the Visitor’s Centre to begin your exploration. Why? Because there you’ll meet Claire, a local who will introduce you to the fascinating story of the largest Prisoner of War (POW) break out in modern military history: the escape of over a thousand Japanese prisoners in 1944.
From there, a visit to Australia’s World Peace Bell is in order—a replica of the one that stands in the forecourt of the United Nations headquarters in New York—followed by visiting the POW Campsite. As one of the top heritage sites in New South Wales, it’s a great glimpse into some history of Australia that I admittedly didn’t know about—including how prison break sadly saw 231 Japanese prisoners of war lose their lives along with four Australian soldiers.
Just a warning: it is soberingly sad. But exploring the walking tracks on a cold, clear morning is not only eye-opening but also visually stunning and with beautiful water tank murals cutting striking figures in the distance—it’s very easy to lose yourself amongst the landscape. If you’d like to pay your respects, the Cowra Japanese War Cemetery (the only one to be retained in Australia) is also open to the public.
Explore the culture
Think gardens are only suitable for exploration during the spring? You’d be very wrong because the multi-award-winning Cowra Japanese Garden is stunning all year round—including in the middle of winter.
Created by Ken Nakajima it’s a symbol of peace and understanding between Australia and Japan (allowing the spirits of the Japanese prisoners of war who died in Cowra to descend into the garden and be reminded of their home). See why I said you need to know about the history of the town?
Evoking all of Japan’s beauty—apart from eucalypt trees that were kept as symbols of the Australian soldiers that also died in the break out—in the garden you’ll find a traditional Edo Cottage, open air Tea House and a Bonsai House and you’ll quickly forget you’re in the middle of the country. And with five hectares of beauty and tranquillity to explore, I found every moment here incredibly relaxing; from watching the Koi in the pond to exploring the galleries of the Culture Centre, home to many Japanese artworks and artefacts.
And with a café on site serving top-notch coffee and plenty of food as well as incredibly helpful staff, it’s very easy to spend a few hours here enjoying the winter sun and watching the waterfalls.
Another suggestion to immerse yourself into Cowra’s culture is to pop into the Cowra Art Gallery where you’ll see unique exhibitions from regional artists and explore the main street to shop the local boutiques—and if you don’t know where to start, you can always ask a local for a good suggestion.
Taste (and tour) the local produce
If you’re looking for a tasting experience that doesn’t involve wine, a visit to Glen Donald Estate is not only a fantastic (and delicious) way to spend an afternoon, but I can guarantee you’ll drive away with a smile. Owned by Natalie and Rob Caruana, this working farm is about a 25-minute drive from the centre of Cowra and is home to goats, sheep, cows and about 30 very friendly alpacas.
Producing award-winning olive oil, garlic, and vinegar (the caramelised balsamic vinegar was a personal favourite), no two tours are the same at this farm, but starting with a tasting plate of their products—a gourmet Ploughman’s Lunch complete with fresh cheese, relishes, meats, and pickles or one of their woodfire pizzas—is a must. And as a pro tip for people with dietaries, Natalie is gluten-free and will make sure you don’t miss out on any of the yummy goodness.
With a passion for growing fresh, ethical, and accessible produce, from there—depending on your interests—you can pick your own olives which you can take home to brine (I’m now the proud owner of over two kilos of Kalamata olives) and meet the animals on the farm as Natalie explains how they work towards becoming a completely sustainable destination. And as a couple who started living out in the Northern Beaches of Sydney before moving to the country for a tree change and to care for one of their daughters, you can really see the passion that’s helped them build the business for 20 years—and their brutal honesty on how hard it was to get there.
Genuinely friendly, authentically themselves, and very fun to chat with over a meal, there are even plans to launch a glamping tent overlooking the olive trees and a farm stay cottage (which will be designed with amenities for families with children in palliative care to stay in for a well-deserved holiday), Glen Donald Estate promises to be another great location to stay in the future.
And don’t worry if you show up in the wrong kind of shoes to explore the farm (note: suede boots are cute but not practical for mud)—if they have your size (or close to it), they’ll lend you a pair of boots to use for the day. Country hospitality, remember?
EAT AND DRINK
With a main street bookended by two very good pubs, you won’t go hungry or thirsty in Cowra. At one end, you’ll find the Imperial Hotel, home to an award-winning restaurant and a bar stocked with everything you could want. It’s also the place where you’ll find “one of the best chicken schnitzel’s you’ll ever have”—at least according to my partner who is a bit of a self-proclaimed schnitzel connoisseur. While he ordered the BBQ Meat Lover schnitzel (a thick plate-sized crumbed chicken breast covered in salami, ham, bacon, cheese, and BBQ sauce and served with chips and salad), I recommend their steaks, particularly the Wagyu Medallions. Thick and so tender they melt in your mouth, it rivalled any of Canberra’s steak houses.
At the other end of town, the Railway Hotel is a great place for a friendly pub meal. Here, you’ll find options like seared salmon with beetroot puree and fresh fetta salad on the menu—which is no surprise if you know that the owner of this hotel is the very same Kate Alberry of award-winning The Quarry Restaurant. Perfect if you’re looking for a finer dining experience, this is another great suggestion, because Kate sources and uses local, fresh produce to create mouth-watering seasonal dishes that pair perfectly with the organic and biodynamic wine list. And to top it off, she’s not only a talented chef, she’s also incredibly lovely to talk to.
For coffee lovers, Gingerbird Espresso does a great coffee (and uses locally produced almond milk) but there are plenty of cafes around the town that you can pop in to enjoy a warm brew or grab one to go.
With all its charm, I’m kicking myself that I’ve never properly stopped to enjoy Cowra sooner. But now I’ve had a taste of the town and its people, I know I’ll be back to spend more time in this part of the country.
